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夏末-南岛-我的蜜月情节(有图有真相) [复制链接]

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没有雪山,没有鲁冰花,也没有金黄色的树叶.......。夏末的南岛并没有像想象中那么惊艳,但是却一样让我震撼!记得第一次来到南岛已经是6年前的事了,那时候感觉南岛好冷,但是美得让人窒息!特别是提卡珀湖,美得那么得不真实,好像整条湖都用蓝色颜料染过一样,真的是好蓝啊!特别是在雪山的衬托下显得尤为美丽和壮观!还有那精致的女皇镇,实在让人流连忘返.......

如今再次来到这里,虽然少了很多东西,但对我来说对却多了两样最重要的东西,那就是幸福和归属感!因为当年我才刚到新西兰一年,拿的是学生签证,孤单单的一个人来到南岛旅游,对来我说南岛就是个陌生的旅游之地,以后也不会再来了。本来是准备结束南岛之行后就离开这个国家的,因为觉得这里除了风景没有什么让我留恋的。不过命运往往会改变一切。没想到最后我还是选择在这里读完研究生,进入社会工作,甚至在这里遇到了我的另一半,并且结婚生子。如今我们的宝宝刚好一周岁了!所以现在对我来说新西兰也算是我的家了,再次来到南岛有种故地重游的感觉!看到这里可能很多朋友会说“都结婚生子了,怎么还叫蜜月呢?”其实,这是我的一个小秘密,也许对大多数已经结婚或将要结婚的女人来说“蜜月”并不算是什么大不了的事,可是对我来说就像是一个永远都触及不到的东西,所以一直让我感到很遗憾!总之,我一直很羡慕有过或即将会有蜜月旅行的朋友们。

再次来到南岛是因为机缘巧合,一方面宝宝这段时间都在国内妈妈家里照看着,而且正好最近有南岛的客人联系我们去那里帮拍婚纱照,而且我们的摄影工作室正好受gowldword.com狂野世界约稿——其实主要是拍些一手的照片,算算还有剩下的空余时间,所以我和老公就开始有了个念头,就是来一次所谓的“南岛蜜月旅行”,老公说这样也好了结了我的蜜月情节。在一阵子调查搜索之后,我们制定了一系列游玩南岛的计划,当然还有生活照,婚纱照和风景照的拍摄计划!


于是,按照计划我们一踏上南岛就在基督城租了辆车,全程都是地图加GPS导航,不得不说新西兰的交通还是非常便捷和发达的。第一站是蒂玛鲁(Timaru),蒂玛鲁是坎特伯雷第二大城市,坐落在基督城(Christchurch)和旦尼丁(Dunedin)之间的中途。我们当时只是把它作为去奥玛鲁(Oamaru)的中转站,在那里过一晚,第二天就开车去奥玛鲁。意外的是它有你中途逗留所需的一切。海滩与主要购物区之间,有着众多餐馆和漂亮的咖啡馆。蒂玛鲁还有很多豪华的维多利亚和爱德华时期的建筑,据了解都是使用当地火山青石岩建造。那天早上逛蒂玛鲁,风很大还下着雨,我坐在车里都懒得出去拍照,而摄影师老公却依然热情不减,一个人在风里雨里抓拍了很多当地的风景照,坐在车里我随着老公在Timaru不停的兜着风,突然发现不远处有个非常漂亮的老建筑,于是我们就朝那个方向开过去,近了才知道原来是个天主教堂,这么漂亮的教堂连我也忍不住下车来瞻仰,于是老公就连忙给我拍了几张。后来查阅资料才得知这个教堂叫做圣心大教堂(The Church of the Sacred Heart),这可能是在提马鲁最美丽的风景点之一了。大教堂建于1910 - 由建筑师威廉弗朗西斯设计,大殿采用了大量白色柱子和彩色玻璃窗户,与后面看到的那种带有尖尖顶的灰色教堂不一样,这个显得美丽,敦厚,祥和。







离开蒂玛鲁后,我们急速奔向奥玛鲁(Oamaru),这个城市给我的感觉是好像是回到了19世纪,大量的白色石灰石建筑,意大利文艺复兴时期宫廷风随处可见,还有典型的维多利亚式街景,对于曾经学过建筑设计的我来说实在是感动万分!它怎么能保留得那么完整呢?!更令我感叹家乡古建筑的悲惨命运,中国的历史性古建筑太多被无情的拆除了,我家的祖屋也没有幸免于难......!想着想着我又开始叹息这个城市现在的冷清和没落,走在大街上许久都不见一个人影。曾经奥玛鲁因淘金、采石和木料加工而繁荣一时,而今却几乎被人们所遗忘,这座城市多少会让人有些惋惜和心酸!也许是我想太多了。和老公继续逛着街,突然发现一个很特别很古朴的小店,无论是室外还是室内都维持着维多利亚时期的风格,进去店里才发现原来是个二手衣帽店。很少逛二手服装店的我却深深被这个西方古味很浓的小店所吸引,不知道是怎么的,我突然觉得仿佛回到了19世纪的时候,看到周围的人们在这个店里进进出出,女人们挑着衣服互相谈笑风声......








“你看这件外套怎么样?”老公的话音打断了我的遐想!当我想离开店里的时候,却发现那边墙上有好多帽子和头饰,感觉好特别!于是连忙走去那边看,听洋人店主介绍说这些帽子其实都是古董来着,很多都是在19世纪晚期到20世纪中期的,包括很多二手衣服都是那个时期的,因为她的个人爱好,特意的把这个店装饰成维多利亚时期的风格。我试了好一会儿,但特别中意一个淡紫色有羽毛和花饰的礼帽,店主说那是1920年左右的礼帽,也算古董了。真没想到都那么久了,这个礼帽还保存得那么好! 因为特别喜欢,老公就买给了我,也算是对这个特别地方的纪念了!接下来的时间我们都在拍照,发现奥玛鲁有很多我喜欢的东西,比方那旧旧的木头门,古老的店牌等,岁月真的像个独具匠心的艺术家,把这一切都搞的好油画!多么漂亮的色彩啊!每一件漂亮的东西似乎都需要时间来琢磨!



因为我们要打算赶去丹尼丁(Dunedin)过夜,所以只有匆匆告别奥玛鲁继续南行,一路上我们都在领略窗外的美景,开着开着我发现前面不远处的山头有一个白白的塔状物,因为那座山特别高,塔又在最高处所以显得特别得美!没想到真正厉害的还在后面,当我们的车子走近那座山的时候发现在山角下居然有着一望无际的向日葵花。于是,近处的向日葵,远处的高山还有白塔再加上白云和蓝天,构成了一副绝美的风景画!据农场管理人员说这向日葵的盛开可是6年一遇的, 看来我们还真是幸运呢!在享受了这意外的美景之后我们又拍了些照片,匆匆离去了!





赶到旦尼丁的时候已经差不多晚上8点了,一踏入这个城市就感觉好熟悉,因为六年前我来过这里,发现这里还是跟当年没有太大差别,旦尼丁的天际线是由众多古老的维多利亚式巨石建筑勾勒的,众多教堂林立,保存完好的维多利亚式古建筑在城市中随处可见。我和老公去旅店定了房间安顿了之后就出去吃了晚饭顺便逛了逛旦尼丁的市中心。感觉旦尼丁不愧是南半球维多利亚时代和爱德华时代风格的建筑保存最好的城市之一,在新西兰很多城市因为城市化发展把古建筑给淹没的同时,丹尼丁看到了这些建筑的价值并保留了它们。今天,在旦尼丁,政府或私人机构又通过这种与旅游和生活相融合的保护历史建筑的方式,不仅完整地保存了古建筑的历史文脉,也将建筑保护与城市的发展有效地结合在一起。我们在旦尼丁住了两晚,因为觉得这里有太多值得停留的地方,比方我们住的旅店也有近150年的历史了,虽然不是什么豪华的地方,但是它也算的上是维多利亚时代风格的建筑了,第二天早上老公让我穿上带来的礼服在我们住的房间还有下面的楼梯上拍了些照片,因为这次旅行就我和老公两个人,所以打灯光方面就只能从简,但拍出来的感觉还不错。











后来我们就出去采风拍照了,去了一些教堂建筑,去了古董火车站等等,一直拍到天黑没法拍为止。等我们想到吃晚饭的时候已经挺晚了,当时饭店几乎都关门了,只有一家在市中心的日本餐馆还开着,于是我们就吃了顿日本餐,感觉还满超值的,值得推荐!



























第二天,我们去了全世界最陡的街,巧克力工厂等,最让我印像深刻的还是“欧维斯顿”(The Olveston),据导游介绍这是丹尼丁的富商David Theomin 的宅邸,于1904年由著名的英国建築师乔治爵士所设计建造的。欧维斯顿可以说是纽西兰境内爱德华式豪华生活的最佳代表。而这个府邸最让我感兴趣的就是它所拥有的画,从一个房间到另一个房间,从一个厅到另一个厅,墙上挂满了各种各样画,一件件的绘画作品让我目不暇接,来不急欣赏的我真的不想那么快就离开这些画,真的不明白导游为什么走的那么快?这里一共有35个房间,每个房间几乎都有着华丽的傢俱与绘画装饰品,很佩服主人有那么好的品味。后来参观到楼上音乐休息厅的时候,导游强烈要求我们中间会弹钢琴的人出来为大家演奏厅中的三角钢琴,正好大家都不会,老公就把我“出卖”了,于是好久不弹琴的我就选了首简单易懂的通俗钢琴曲弹了一遍,大家都热情的为我鼓掌,我也乘机虚荣了一会儿,不过感觉还不错,至少是美好的经历。这架钢琴是斯坦威的,虽然有些Key不怎么准,显然好久没调音了,但还是值得一弹!听导游说曾经这个家庭的爸爸和女儿经常会弹这个钢琴.......后来还听说主人是从事进出口商的生意,因此室内的摆饰品几乎囊括世界各地,有日本武士的武器盔甲、中国的佛像、印尼的雕像、荷兰的花瓶等,我还看到了游乐房内中国的玉如意和日本的字画。主人兴趣的广泛可见一斑。但是由于主人的一儿一女皆没有后代,这栋庄园后来捐给了旦尼丁市,也让它美丽的辉华得以公诸于世。
由于室内禁止拍照,我和老公就在外面拍了些做纪念。后来我们还去了旦尼丁植物园,小逛了一下拍了些照我们就离开了旦尼丁直奔女皇镇。




从丹尼丁去女皇镇的这段路感觉不是很好开,先是碰到了还没修好的满是细石子的公路,石子卡进了轮胎,再是无止尽的盘山公路,转的人都快晕了,老公由于睡眠不足,又连续开车,有一次突然走神差点出车祸。感觉我们这次行程安排得还是太紧了点。不过功夫不负有心人,我们还是在赶在天黑之前到达了女皇镇,再次来到女皇镇感觉的真的很亲切,感觉这里的市中心变的更发达了,各种各样的设施都有了,市中心的商业街越来越繁华了,记得六年前来这里店铺寥寥无几,只有美丽的风景没有繁华的街区。不知道我应该为之高兴呢还是感叹呢?

到了预定的酒店后我们就马上吃了晚饭洗澡休息了,晚上依偎着老公坐在阳台上欣赏远处女皇镇的美景,喝着暖暖的茶,感觉真的好舒服好浪漫。这样才是蜜月该有的感觉!我开始埋怨老公总是不停的拍照搞创作却忽略了和我一起渡蜜月的感觉。老公说以后会经常跟我“蜜月旅行”,接下来他也会多加注意,但这次还是不能忽略了摄影工作。我对他表示理解。


第二天,我们上午逛了女皇镇一圈,拍了些照片,我还买了件吊带裙。下午吃了饭就离开女皇镇去瓦那卡湖了。在去瓦那卡湖的途中,我们观赏到了一次绝美的大自然的创作过程,只见不远处几束移动着的太阳光照射着前方的山谷,显得格外神奇美丽,当我们停下车来拍摄时,还碰到了另外一位洋人摄影师,拿着个三脚架,相机好像是佳能500D什么的,镜头好像是17-55/f2.8还是15-85的,拍照认真对了好久,还用延迟自拍。老公说:“三脚架,延迟自拍,大白天亮光光的,纯粹学院派的习惯,画面不是靠这个体现的。我们得讲究效率。”

说罢,拿出相机啪啪啪几张,便收工了。





到了瓦那卡湖,老公叫我换了件白色的婚纱在湖边拍些婚纱照,那可真的是折腾人啊!那天的湖边风大得不得了,人都站不住,风声响得像在怒吼!湖水被风吹得都快飞起来了,我身上都被弄湿了!因为风实在太大了,所以拍了一些就收手了。后来看照片的时候发现还是有几张不错的抓拍,总算没有白吃苦。




由于时间紧迫,我们匆匆告别了瓦那卡湖,驱车奔向提卡波湖,赶到提卡波湖的时候已经是黄昏时分了,我们先去预定的酒店办了手续安顿了下来,紧接着就去了提卡波湖和石头教堂那边。感觉跟六年前相比,提卡波湖没有我记忆中那样蓝了,也许那天风很大,湖面没有当年我来的时候那样平静,也许今天来晚了,天空没有我当年来的时候那么蓝,更重要的是远处的雪山已经融化了。不过那牧羊人的教堂还是一样的吸引人,特别跟提卡波湖一起构成了一道神圣而美丽的风景线。更重要的是六年前我在这里默默许下了诺言,我会带上我的那个他重返这里,就在这个石头教堂。如今我老公就在我身边,我的诺言实现了!此时此刻正在专注拍摄的老公并未注意到我现在正在想些什么,我暂时也不想告诉他什么......














“来,你坐在这里,我给你拍两张......!”老公抓紧时间给我来了几张特写,之后就是拍风景。因为天色已晚,我们就在酒店附近的中国餐馆吃了顿晚饭,然后就赶紧回去休息了。第二天早上我们又一同去石头教堂那拍了些照片,然后就开车回去基督城了。

相信大家对基督城都非常了解,基督城有“上帝的花园”之美称,给我的感觉是:教堂,广场,英伦风情。轻松漫步在基督城街上, 放眼所见均是19世纪的古建筑! 尤其以“大教堂”为代表性的建筑. 歌德式建筑风格充满优雅情韵。特别是基督城的艾芳河(Avon River) 这条丰姿绰约的艾芳河,沿途尽是杨柳垂岸,由于初期开拓者极力想将英国风格迁移来此, 因此基督城除了道路宽广平直外, 就是这条贯穿市区的河流也落落大方, 风采直追剑桥的康河. 基督城至今保留了古董电车,在这个充满历史韵味的城市里,添加了更加怀旧、笨拙可爱的19世纪工业文明色彩。

来到基督城后的第二天,我们的拍摄任务真正开始了,这次的拍摄对象是一对刚来基督城的小夫妻,他们很喜欢基督城,所以想在这个美丽的城市拍上一套婚纱照留做纪念,于是我们就在基督城给他们选了几个特色景点,由于这对小夫妻特别默契,又比较放得开,所以大概花了四个小时左右的时间就完成了全部拍摄任务。

南岛之行终于告以段落了。我的蜜月旅行也圆满结束。也许对我来说这是一个过于匆忙的不够浪漫的蜜月旅行,但它的确是一个让我感到幸福感到充实的旅行!而且我觉得人的一生其实可以有无数个“蜜月”,这只是一个美好的开始,而更精彩的“蜜月”正在将来不远处等着我。
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